Backpacking New Zealand – 2 Week Itinerary

My husband and I took this trip back in 2017, I had to pump like four times a day because my son (who was staying with my parents) was still nursing, and it is still, to this day, the best vacation I have ever been on. I would go back to New Zealand in an instant. While it’s been a long time, I still have our itinerary (which I plan in excruciating detail), so I figured I’d share it in case it’s helpful for anyone else! You’ll find our day to day schedule below along with some notes (my husband didn’t do a trip journal for this trip, so it’ll just be from my memory after seven years) and then overall thoughts at the bottom.

Please keep in mind that we like to move really fast on our vacations and cover a lot of ground. In fact, the folder that my husband saved our pictures under is called “Breakneck Zealand.”

Day 1: (Mar 17) Auckland
– Arrive in Auckland at 0555
– Rent a car
– Go to PakNSav for breakfast supplies
– Check in hotel (Oaklands Lodge) and spend the day in Auckland
– Auckland activities: Cornwall Park and Domain Park (Recommend)
– Auckland eats: (I can’t actually remember where we ate, but these are the places I had written down that were close-ish to our hostel) Best Ugly Bagles, Burger Fuel, Wok n Noodle Bar, Eden Village Fish Shop, Zool Zool, Namaste Bar

Notes: Auckland was gorgeous. I absolutely loved the parks and walking around the city. However, I underestimated how tired we would be after the 14-hour flight, and I made my poor husband walk 13 miles around the city. Later on, we would discover the public buses were extremely easy to navigate, and we definitely should’ve used them! Our hostel (we stayed mostly in hostels with private rooms) was also cozy and in a good location. My husband also had to learn how to drive on the left side of the road, which is always an exciting adventure. 😂 But I think he got the hang of it much faster than he thought he would.

Day 2: Waitomo & Drive to Tonga
– Leave at 0600 and drive 2.5 hours to Waitomo
– Waitomo Eats: Waitomo general store (takeout Indian not Far)
– Check in at 0830 for 5-hour Glowworm Black Abyss Tour (Recommend)
– Finish at 1400 and drive 2 hours to Tonga
– Tonga eats: Groceries
– Stay at Plateau Lodge

Notes: Okay, first of all, I cannot under-describe the beauty of the New Zealand countryside, and the Glowworm tour was a blast. I also had written in our agenda ” If time/energy, visit Huka Falls & Lake Taupo” But, with the jetlag and the 13 mi walk the previous day, I’m pretty sure we were so exhausted when we got to the hostel we turned in. Plateau Lodge was a another cozy hostel with a great location, a shuttle to Tongariro, and a good kitchen that fit what we needed.

Day 3: Hike Tongariro Crossing (MUST-DO)
– Use hotel shuttle and hike Tongariro Crossing (leave at 0730, return at 1530)
– Drive 4.5 hours back to Auckland
– Stay at Oaklands Lodge in Auckland.

Notes: This is one of my favorite, most memorable hikes I’ve ever done. And not just because Mt Tongagiro is Mt Doom from the Lord of the Rings movies. Tongariro Crossing is a 12 mi point to point with wildly beautiful and varying landscape. And if you plan on summit-ing Mt Tongariro itself, you need to add about 2 hours for the extra 1.2 mi. We did not take that side hike because we weren’t sure if we would be able to make it to our shuttle in time. (There was a later shuttle but it was MUCH later and we still needed to drive back to Auckland.) In retrospect this was a good choice, because we were definitely tired at the end of the hike as it was and we would’ve had to BOOK it to make the early shuttle. Though I don’t remember it being crowded at all, as of 2023, apparently you need to book tickets for your Tongariro crossing in advance so you can be sure to get a shuttle.

Day 4: Travel to Milford Sound
– Fly to Queenstown
– Rent Car
– Drive 4 hours to Milford Sound
– Stop in Te Anau and pick up key lock and hiking tickets (see Routeburn Track Day below)
– Stay at Milford Lodge

Notes: This was mostly a travel day for us, but the drive from Queenstown to Milford is beautiful. I think I harbored fantasies that we might be able to do stuff on our way through Queenstown, but we definitely didn’t have time. It wasn’t a huge deal though because we had more time in Queenstown later on in the trip. Milford Lodge was the one place where we shared a room with another couple, but jet-lagged as we were, I think we fell asleep before they got there and left before they woke up. Not ideal, but lodging around Milford is sparse so we felt lucky to get a room.

Day 5: Milford Sound (MUST-SEE)
– Kayak tour and hike around
Notes: This is a place our photos will *never* do justice. It is beyond beautiful and just completely surreal. I don’t think the kayak tour was a must do, but in general, this place is a must visit.

Day 6: Routeburn Track Hike (MUST-DO)
– Hike 14 miles and stay at Routeburn Falls Hut
Notes: To this day, the best hike I’ve ever done. We did the Routeburn as a two day hike, staying at one of the bunk/dorm style huts along the way, and hired someone to drive our car from the start of the trail to the end. Even looking at the pictures makes me want to go back and hike some more. Honestly, if you’re a hiker, don’t miss this one. Pictures don’t do justice.

Day 7: Routeburn Track Hike & Queenstown
– Hike 7 miles
– Care ready at 1130
– Drive 1 hour back to Queenstown

– Ate at Fergburger for lunch and Erik’s Fish and chips for dinner (solid eats but the crowd at Fergburger is nuts)
– Drive the Luge in Queenstown (Recommend)
– Stay in Absoloot Value in Queenstown (solid)

Notes: Pardon the absolute glut of pictures (trust me, we have so many more), I don’t know how else to convey how amazing this hike is. I think I also entertained the fantasy of us hiking Ben Lomond in Queenstown, but we really just ran out of time/energy. We drove the Luge and walked around and that was just right for today.

Day 8: Mt Cook National Park
– Drive 3 hours to Mt Cook National Park
– Hike (I cannot remember which hikes we did, but I have written down: Hooker Valley Track, Red Tarns, Tasman Lake Walk, Sealy Tarns)
– Stayed at YHA Mt Cook (solid.)

Notes: In retrospect, if I had to cut one thing from our itinerary, it probably would’ve been this. I enjoyed the drive out to the park, but I remember being a little underwhelmed by the Mt Cook hikes after the wonders of Milford Sound and the Routeburn Track. In fairness, it was a cloudy day, but then magically, it cleared up that night, and I saw some of the brightest stars in my life. (And it’s always cool to look at the Southern Hemisphere Constellations)

Day 9: Hike and Drive to Queenstown
– Hike around Mt Cook National Park
– Drive back to Queenstown
– Stay at Bungi Backpackers (I remember not being crazy about this place.)

Notes: Full disclosure, we were starting to get fatigued and used this as a bit of a recharge day.

Day 10: Travel to Bay of Islands for Rock Adventure Cruise (MUST-DO)
– Fly to Auckland
– Drive 3.5 hours to Bay of Islands
– Stay the Floating Hostel (The 1-day Rock Adventure Cruise)

Notes: Okay, my husband and I almost called an audible and didn’t do this (it had been a long day and it was pouring when we got The Bay of Islands) but that would’ve been a HUGE MISTAKE, and I’m SO incredibly glad we did this. Like, I’m even smiling thinking about it right now. Heck, I’m even going to link it. If I ever go back to NZ, I’m totally doing this again. This was SO much fun. I have never kissed so many fish in my life (IYKYK) and my husband even caught an octopus (though he did not kiss it.) Looking at the stars as you float in bioluminescent algae, fantastic guides/hosts and just a super fun atmosphere on board. Cannot recommend enough.

Day 11: Rock Adventure Cruise & Drive to Rotarua
– Spend the morning on the Rock Hostel
– Leave at 3 p.m. and drive 6 hours to Rotarua

Stay at Rock Solid Backpackers (Solid)
Notes: The Bay of Islands is GORGEOUS. Also have I mentioned the Rock Adventure Cruise was a complete blast? It was the perfect place to recharge while having fun near the end of our trip.

Day 12: Rotarua
– Te Puia (Recommend)
– Whakarewarewa – The living Maori Village & Forest (Recommend)
– Hobbiton (MUST-DO)
– Drive 3.5 hours back to Auckland

Notes: Te Puia and Whakarewarewa were really interesting from a cultural perspective, and the geothermal activity there is really interesting there as well. We were actually supposed to go whitewater rafting today, but it was cancelled due to high water levels. So on a whim, we decided to go Hobbiton and it was the BEST AUDIBLE EVER. I like Lord of the Rings but I’m not a mega-fan or anything, so at first, it wasn’t even on our itinerary. But Hobbiton is hands down incredible. It is absolutely gorgeous and the level of detail is astounding. Somehow we managed to luck out on a random Tuesday when crowds were incredibly low, our guide was amazing, and we had a blast. It horrifies me that we almost missed out on it!

Day 13: Sydney, Australia
– Fly to Sydney
– See the Opera House (Recommend)
– Do the Bondi to Coogee coastal walk (Recommend)
– Stay at Jackaroo Hostel Kings Cross (solid)
Notes: It just so happens that it was cheaper for us to go ATL->Auckland->Sydney->ATL then to do a roundtrip from ATL to Auckland. Go figure! I’d traveled around Australia before, but since my husband had never been, I wanted him to at least see Sydney. However, I would like to note that at this point, we were both getting pretty exhausted, so, as beautiful as Sydney is, we were starting to look forward to going home.

Day 14: Thursday, Mar 30 – Featherdale (Recommend)
Notes: If you want to go see the bizarre creatures of Australia and feed a wallaby, this is the place to go! This was my second trip to Featherdale, and while I enjoyed it, it was a little out of the way, and we were definitely worn out and ready to go home at this point.

Day 15: Friday, Mar 31 – Fly home!
Overall Notes: So yeah, like I said, this was definitely my favorite vacation I’ve ever been on and certainly the most memorable (even if we were exhausted by the end!) Whenever someone asks a recommendation of where to travel, or one place I’d travel back to it, it’d be New Zealand.

There were so many must-do and must-see things that it’s hard to pick a favorite, but if I *had* to trim a few things from the itinerary, I’d probably nix Mt. Cook and the hop to Sydney (though if it had been my first time in Sydney/Australia, I might’ve felt differently.) And what’s crazy is that even though we saw so much, I feel like there are so many things we didn’t get to do! So yeah, hoping to one day make it back to New Zealand. 💛

Anyways, hope this was helpful, and if you have any questions about the itinerary or anything, feel free to ask! If you’d like to check out our other itineraries for our other trips over the years you can find them here!

Iceland 10 day Itinerary!

We interrupt this bookish content for our annual adventure report! For our getaway this year, my husband (AC) and I hit Iceland for 10 days! As always, thanks to my parents for watching the kids while we went exploring! 😘 Since I heavily depend on travel blogs for tips, ideas, and itineraries, I wanted to put out my recommendations in case it’s helpful for anyone. I’ll describe our itinerary and then give some general thoughts/suggestions.

Itinerary

  • Day 1, Sat, 27 Aug: Flew through Chicago to Keflavík on United.
  • Day 2, Sun 28 Aug:
    • Arrived at 9am (4am central time)
      • OMG It was windy and cold. But mostly windy. Did I mention it was WINDY??! Something like 35mph winds on the 28th and 50+mph on the 29th.
    • Picked up 4×4 from Ice Rental – recommend.
      • Quick & no issues. So glad we got the 4×4 because the roads in Iceland can definitely be dicey.
    • Got groceries at the Kronán
      • Good location next to the airport & you *will* need the groceries. We basically lived on protein bars (that we packed), apples, nutella, & bread.
    • Drove 20 min to Blue Lagoon for noon reservation – highly recommend
      • Loved this. Such a clutch move to go right after you get in and are jetlagged out of your mind.
    • Drove 50 min to Reykjavik: walked to Hallsgrimkirja Church, Harpa concert hall, Laugavegur Street, and the Sun Voyager Sculpture
      • This was nice especially since we were too jetlagged to do anything else.
    • Ate at Reykjavik street food.
      • Simple but fast & filling. CA had Fish Stew (read: mashed potatoes with fish) and I had Meat Soup (read: chicken noodle plus mystery meat and minus noodles)
    • Stayed at Blue House B&B
      • Good location. Essentially we were in a two bedroom house, sharing a bathroom with the other guests. But since we went to bed at like 5pm and left at 5am we actually never even saw them.
  • Day 3, Mon, 29 Aug:
    • Drove 1 hr to Thingvellir & snorkeled Silfra with Troll Expeditions
      • Very interesting to snorkel in dry suit. Allegedly you’re snorkeling through the tectonic plates, but actually “between the plates” is broadly used here. You’re basically looking into crystal clear water in a crevasse. It was interesting but probably not a must do.
    • Hiked Öxarárfoss (2.6 mi)
      • Nice easy hike to be very overshadowed by future hikes.
      • Drove 1 hr to Glymur Waterfall hike (4.3 mi) – recommend
        • Great hike! Loved the views, though be warned there is a wide river crossing to be prepared for and well… I may have gotten us a little lost on the way down because there are false cairns everywhere and the actual trail isn’t well marked. 😅 Just remember to stick close to the falls, and you’ll avoid some serious bushwhacking.
      • Drove 1.5 hrs to stay at Galleri Laugarvatin – recommend
        • Really liked this place! A solid base camp for Golden Circle adventures with a private bathroom
  • Day 4, Tue, 30 Aug:
    • Drove 20 min to hike Bruarfoss (3.9 mi) – recommend
      • Lovely easy hike. The water was very blue.
    • Drove 15 min to hike around Geysir
      • Pretty crowded here, but can be a quick stop just to watch the geysir and walk around the springs
    • Drove 30 min to the Secret Lagoon hot spring
      • A very relaxed hot spring turned pool. Supposedly the oldest hot spring pool in Iceland. Not as schmancy as the Blue lagoon, but it was still nice to get our pool noodles and just relax for a bit
    • Drove 35 min to Kerid Crater
      • Interesting spot to stop at because the crater is rather impressive.
    • Drove 25 min to return to galleri laugarvatn
    • Ate at the Barnloft – highly recommend
      • Excellent burgers & ice cream with a relaxing atmosphere. However… the cow-viewing seats seem kind of weird when you’re eating a burger. Vegetarians beware.
  • Day 5, Wed, Aug 31
    • Drove 2.5 hrs to Landmannlauger
      • Felt like we were driving to the moon, and we really realized the need for the 4×4. The roads are *rough* and this place was remote. Fingers were definitely crossed we didn’t get a flat tire.
    • Blue Peak hike (3.8 mi) – recommend
      • We were originally supposed to do Brennisteinsalda as well… but the weather was way rough. The CAT 1 winds at the top were so crazy it knocked me on my butt a few times, which was a little dicey on the narrow ridges (that triggered AC’s acrophobia). So after blue peak we called it. Still, despite the elements, it was a beautiful hike!
    • Sigoldugljufur canyon of waterfalls viewpoint – recommend
      • You kind of have to park and walk to get here, because it’s unmarked (but it’s on google maps), but the beautiful view is totally worth it.
    • Haifoss – recommend
      • Another beautiful waterfall viewpoint
    • Ate at the Barnloft again.
  • Day 6, Thu, Sep 1
    • Drove 40 min to Gulfoss – recommend
      • Definitely cool if you get here early. This is a big waterfall, but later on the crowds are crazy
    • Drove 2 hrs to Kerlingarfjoll and hiked Hveradalir geothermal area – recommend
      • So it was freezing and sleeting on us, but we still spent several hours here and it was really cool. Some of the hiking areas are quite steep though, and can get super slick and muddy (like shoe stealing muddy) on narrow ridges. Definitely triggered AC’s acrophobia
    • Drove 3 hrs to stay at Loa’s Nest – highly recommend
      • Our favorite place we stayed! Private bathroom and cozy room in the horse pastures of Iceland. Also the owners are super personable and had some great recommendations on what to do in the area.
    • Eat at Hekla street food – highly recommend
      • Delicious fish and chips. Hot, fresh, filling & perfect after a long day.
  • Day 7, Fri, Sep 2
    • Waterfall Way (first 4.2 mi of Fimmvorduhals) – highly recommend
      • We were originally planning on doing the whole 15.5 mi point-to-point hike and taking the trex bus back, but AC had injured his leg, so we just did waterfall way. But probably my favorite hike from the whole trip.
    • Ate at Hekla street food again
  • Day 8, Sat, Sep 3
    • Big driving day with lots of stops! Hit:
      • Nauthasagil – highly recommend
        • Really liked this hike! Just wish we had some Wellies to go a little further down the river to the waterfall instead of only rock-hopping part way.
      • Baby Yoda Cave
        • Right off the main road and worth visiting for the lol factor. It totally looks like baby yoda.
      • Dyrholaey arch – highly recommend
        • Beautiful views
      • Reynisfjara black sand beach – highly recommend
        • Very scenic
      • Ate at Black Crust Pizzeria in Vik – highly recommend
        • Yum! Great pizza, free wifi and chill atmosphere. Definitely recommend, and we hit this place twice.
      • Fjadrargljufur Canyon
        • Like a shorter, more condensed version of waterfall way, but still beautiful
      • Svartifoss – recommend
        • After a short hike, a nice waterfall with cool black hexagonal rock formations around it.
      • Fjallsarlon glacier lagoon
        • A little underwhelming, but right of the main road.
      • Diamond Beach – recommend
        • Very cool! Apparently if you go out early in the morning you have a good chance seeing seals or whales
      • Jokulsarlon Glacier lagoon – recommend
        • A bigger, better version of Fjallsarlon
      • Ate at Hali Country Hotel
        • Can’t recommend this place. We had essentially the same thing we had at Reykjavik Street Food on day 1, but it was like twice the price, and I swear I’d rather have had campbell’s soup out of a can.
      • Stayed at Skyrhusid Guest House
        • Simple hostel-like accommodation.
  • Day 9, Sun, Sep 4
    • Drive 1 hr to Vatnajokull Glacier Tour with Arctic Adventure – recommend
      • They outfit you with gear and take you up the glacier. We did the 4 hour tour, and it was a cool experience.
    • Ate pizza in Vik again
    • Drove 2.5 hrs to Seljalandsfoss & Gljufrabui – recommend
      • This is right off the main road, so it’s kind of crowded, but you can walk behind Seljanlandsfoss & Gljufrabui is in a cool cave, so even though we’d seen ~1 million waterfalls at this point, they were still unique.
    • Drive 2 hr back to Blue House B&B
  • Day 10, Mon, Sep 5
    • 50 min drive back to airport. Return car & fly out. Return home late on 5 Sep.

general thoughts and tips

  • Weather & what to bring:
    • Come prepared. It drizzled *a lot.* In fact, I’m not sure we had one day when it didn’t rain. We had temperatures from like 29-58 F which wasn’t so bad, but the wind was BRUTAL. I mean you *need* waterproof overpants, a waterproof jacket, a thermal base layer (read: long underwear), waterproof gloves (we brought non-waterproof and regretted it) and I also highly recommend waterproof socks.
  • Weird tip
    • If you’re doing an outdoor heavy itinerary like this, don’t bother acclimating to the time change. Because the sun is up most of the time, and almost none of these places had an opening time. So for almost the whole trip we were waking up at like 4-5 am, and we had these places nearly all to ourself for the early hours.
  • Food
    • Omg. Bring as many protein bars as you can because the restaurant choices are extremely limited. Even if you see restaurants on google maps, there’s no guarantee they will be open. You see a lot of tourists eating groceries out of their trunks, and there is a reason for that. The lack of eating options was tough on my foodie husband, and I vowed that our next vacation will definitely have a bigger food element because this was definitely not one of Iceland’s strong points. (Also, food is quite expensive here so there’s that too.
  • Language Barrier (or lack there of)
    • Everyone we spoke to knew English, but man, there are a lot of long place name words to remember!
  • Travel
    • Speaking of expensive, gas is SO expensive in Iceland. You have to have a debit card with a pin to buy at the pump, and gas stations aren’t exactly everywhere, so to avoid the nightmare of being stranded in the middle of nowhere in a foreign country, definitely fuel up early and often!
    • Also, be sure to download google maps on your phone for offline use and navigating should be fairly simple.
  • Things we would do next time.
    • There was an active volcano while we were there, and I wish we had been able to hike to it… but it was an 8 mile hike that was kind of out of our way… so we weren’t too choked up about missing it this time.
    • I also wish we’d been able to do the whole Fimmvorduhals hike, but if I were to do it next time, I would do that *first* so we’re not hiked out by the time we get there.
    • It would’ve been cool to make more of an effort to see the northern lights. But the darkness window in September is super narrow, and it was cloudy almost every day, so there wasn’t really a chance this trip.
    • Also, bring waterproof gloves.
  • Things I’m glad we didn’t do
    • Ring road. Our trip already had a ton of driving in it, and while Iceland is beautiful, we were more happy to get out into it, rather than spend the hours in the car. Especially when I didn’t see a whole lot of more diverse experiences on the north coast. But that was just us!
  • Should you go to Iceland?
    • If you are a fan of natural beauty and hiking, come prepared for the weather, and don’t mind surviving on proteins bars and Nutella for a few days, I think you will *LOVE* Iceland.
  • How much time do you need in Iceland?
    • So with 2 travel days, we had 8 days of Iceland fun. But honestly, I think you could have a fantastic trip in half that. You could easily cut out the glaciers to the far east and do half the hikes/waterfalls. But you definitely don’t need more than 8 days unless you are an *avid* hiker or running away from your problems on a remote volcanic island. But just my 2 cents.

Parting thoughts on Iceland

Iceland is the land of foss’s (waterfalls), glaciers, horses, and really long words. It is a unique, beautiful place and was quite the memorable adventure. I’m absolutely glad we went… but, real talk here, I don’t think it’s on our list to revisit. 😅 Oh boy, was that too honest?

Anyways, hopefully this was helpful! If you’d like to see more of our pictures, I posted a reel on tiktok and instagram @hayleyreesechow. Now, it’s time to plan next year’s adventure! If you have any questions about the itinerary, definitely let me know! 😊